Fast fashion pushes false image of “green” responsibility - study

As Black Friday looms, fast fashion chains are flooding consumers with early deals and endless promotions. So much so that many people feel compelled to buy items that really, they don’t need. But behind the tempting offers lies strategic communication tactics designed to relieve guilt and justify the constant stream of buying and binning, new research from the University of Vaasa reveals.

Associate Professors of Marketing, Henna Syrjälä and Hanna Leipämaa-Leskinen, alongside doctoral student, Tiia Alkkiomäki, analysed how the leading fast fashion companies use social media to legitimise their production activities – often through questionable sustainability claims. The research intertwines sustainability claims with visual and verbal components to try to lubricate the legitimisation of the fast fashion system.

According to the researchers, brands are strategically building their image around environmentally friendly and ethical practices to maintain the idea that they are fair and moral, even when the industry is characterised by excessive overproduction, environmental damage and inhumane working conditions.

The researchers analysed 401 social media posts from the leading Swedish fast fashion brands H&M and Lindex from 2020. And, by examining language, narratives and claims within their posts to see how companies present themselves as responsible and sustainable.

The study found that these brands rely on influencers to legitimise buying: these influencers frame purchases as ‘sensible’ due to the discounts on the items, and seemingly ethical courtesy of charitable, ‘green’ initiatives the retailers undertake. The influencers also share positive stories to make their actions seems responsible.

“The reality of the fast fashion industry is grim. Clothes and accessories are being produced at an accelerating rate, under questionable working conditions, with little regard for the environment and with human rights being trampled on,” says Henna Syrjälä

While consumers are encouraged to make sustainable choices, true change comes from the industry itself: designers, retailers, policymakers are just as responsible as those buying. The researchers argue that a stronger regulation and improved marketing standards are needed to more accurately reflect fast fashion practices, rather than fabricating false realities.

ENDS/

For more information, a copy of the study, or to speak with the researchers, please contact Lucy at lucy@blueksy-pr.com